Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [phile] getting the pig down by yourself: Edit Log


Nov 3, 2007, 12:53 PM

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Registered: Oct 31, 2007
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Re: [phile] getting the pig down by yourself
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Oh, cheers.

The trick is to die a regular EDK knot [assuming the ropes are of almost identical diameter] as per usual. The EDK goes on the "pulldown" side of the anchor, obviously.

Pull the EDK right up to the rap anchor, and then immediately below it, tie a small butterfly. The use a locker to clip the butterfly into the "rappeling side" of the anchor.

Use your Grigri and rap down the one side, held by the butterfly + locker. [And yeah, the EDK also holds you] Remember to put a BFK [big frickin' knot] on the rap side.

When at the next station, UNTIE THE BFK! Then put a BFK in the other side. Once done, pull down on the "pulldown" side where you just tied the BFK, and the free end of the rope will slide up through the locker, as the EDK + butterfly come down towards you.

I have found this to be the Better Way for rapping with pigs, and I prefer it to using an ATC-type device with standard Klemheist backup. The Grigri seems to work really well on enormous loads, once you get the hang of it.

P.S. Good on you re. the Prow, which is really nice route. Half of somethin' is better than all of nothin'. But I don't get it - how could you fail on one wall, but succeed on another? Was it the length, or the difficulty of the climbing on Zodiac that caused you to bail?

(This post was edited by ptpp on Nov 3, 2007, 12:54 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ptpp () on Nov 3, 2007, 12:54 PM: Forgot to ask about Prow/Zodiac

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