Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [colatownkid] self-belay on lead: Edit Log




azrockclimber


Nov 28, 2007, 6:59 AM

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Registered: Jan 28, 2005
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Re: [colatownkid] self-belay on lead
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colatownkid wrote:
This question has been bugging me for a little while and my google searches and older edition of FOTH have been unable to answer it. So...how do you self-belay on lead? I know that it is necessary for block leading, but the only thing I can find are vague references to soloists and clove hitches.

I have done quite a bit of this.

And truly...leading on self belay is just a bad idea. and its not very fun.

When I had to climb alone I switched to climbs that I could hike to the top of... set an anchor and then rap down the single line... and "top rope" solo the route with my soloist device. that was fun.

The nice thing about that was I could get a 200 foot section in with one rope as long as it didn't meander too much.... I've knocked out thousands of feet in a day like that on Mt. Lemmon...

good luck...and build BOMBER ANCHORS... SUPER BOMBER and use directional placements frequently.

Leading on solo is arduous and dangerous. Not worth the time and effort in my opinion. ( big wall stuff is different...but I have no experience there so...)


(This post was edited by azrockclimber on Nov 28, 2007, 7:01 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by azrockclimber () on Nov 28, 2007, 7:00 AM
Post edited by azrockclimber () on Nov 28, 2007, 7:01 AM


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