|
|
Forums:
Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [j_ung] southern trad:
Edit Log
|
|
ja1484
Dec 12, 2007, 12:24 PM
Views: 6759
Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
|
j_ung wrote: WHAAAAAT!? You, sir, have obviously not spent much time tradding at the New. I would say that trad here is exceptional, with occasional bits of middling, and I would guess that vast majority of people who come here to climb over gear agree. Good good, man, have you ever been to Junkyard? Endless Wall? Meadow River? Fern Buttress? BEAUTY MOUNTAIN, for crissakes!? AAAUUUGH! AAAUUUUUUUUUGGHH!!!1
I think this is the part where Jay stops liking me. (assuming he did not already harbor a bitter hate in the first place)
A lot of the routes up there are not bad by any stretch, but they are short, and at times there's a *lot* of walking to get to said short climbs. It's arguable that for some people, a route needs both quality and length. I would be making that argument for myself right now. Jaws, for example, was some of the best fun I've ever had on crack, but it was over in about 70 feet. 4 Sheets to the Wind at Junkyard is similar, if you replace crack with overhung jugs (more fun with overhung j_ungs?) - problem is, there's just not much to the bastards.
Junkyard, Fern, Endless, Bridge Buttress...there's great quality routes there, but the problem is you can lower off 'em  If I'm gonna get the rack out, I'm looking for a day with 10 pitches over maybe two routes, not 10 pitches over 8 routes.
I know you gotta give love for the local bias, and I love the New for its bolt clipping, but there are just many other crags within close proximity that I'd rather trad at.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on Dec 12, 2007, 12:27 PM)
|
|
|
Edit Log:
|
|
Post edited by ja1484
() on Dec 12, 2007, 12:27 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
