Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [quiteatingmysteak] Three person wall climbing: Edit Log


Apr 17, 2008, 1:21 PM

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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] Three person wall climbing
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The day starts with breakfast, then the leader gets out on the sharp end. If they solo-lead it's kind of nice, but that's not required.

Leader (Climber 1) arrives at anchor, by which time the two down below have gotten things from packed up, haul bags ready to go. Leader sets the haul, pulls up about 10' of the static line to bring the line taut (tying it of to the anchor to b/u Climber 3's ride+jug) and facilitate an easier start to the hauling. Climber 3 attaches jugs (with both safeties clipped, mini-traxion optioinal as b/u) to the now-taut haul line, climber 2 sets a munter (or other belay device) to the long tail side, but as close to the haul as possible, clipping it to the anchor somewhere. Climber 2 now releases the mariner's hitch used to dock the bags and lowers the bag out with the long tail of the haul line being run through the belay device clipped to the anchor. When the bags are plumb, or the tail runs through the belay device, for Climber 2 it's now time to jug+clean.

Meanwhile, if leading in blocks, the leader will be advancing the high-point by solo-aiding, leaving their tag-line clipped from harness to anchor, their empty water bottle there too.

Climber 3 jugs the haul line and begins the haul.
Climber 2 jugs the lead line and cleans the pitch, then assists in the remainder of the haul.
Climber 1 keeps on moving.

Once Climber 2 arrives at the belay, they can shed the cleaning rack and give a hand to the haul. As soon as the bags arrive, fish out the water, refill the leader's water bottle, then tag the cleaned gear and fresh water to the leader. Place the leader on belay, then feed them the remainder of the lead rope (which has just been freed up by Climber 2) while they (the leader, Climber 1) pull the slack through their grigri. Re-attach the end of the lead line to the anchor, so that the leader can continue solo-aiding.

Dock the bags.

Now, if you're smart, you will have flagged the ledge on the haul line before lowering it out. This could be either below the rider (Climber 3), or right next to him. Regardless, since the ledge is already set up, you'll want to clip it to the current anchor, at which point climbers 2&3 will sit relatively comfortably for several hours while the line is extended.

Each climber should be interchangeable, but the rotation is: Climber 3 becomes climber 1, climber 2 becomes climber 3, climber 1 becomes climber 2. Got that?

So, if Climber 1 is done with the lead and it's time to swap, climber 3 will take up the sharp end solo-aiding, Climber 1&2 will do the haul (once climber 2 arrives at the anchor, that is), after which climber one will be the next cleaner, climber 2 will be the next pig-rider.

This system works incredibly well, as there's always someone moving, and for periods of time there's work being done in three locations.

It might take a day to get smooth with it, but if you stick to the schedule, someone's always got a series of rest period to look forward to before experiencing the psychologically damaging aspects of leading hauling.Smile


I had to tell the truth there at the end, otherwise it just wouldn't be fair. Hauling sucks.

(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Apr 17, 2008, 1:30 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by stymingersfink () on Apr 17, 2008, 1:30 PM

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