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Climbing Disciplines:
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What is this anchor system called? Will it kill people?:
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spikeddem
May 23, 2008, 1:01 AM
Views: 8147
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
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I am new to trad and have been reading about anchors as much as I can. There is an older thread (~2 years, "Improved Sliding X: Is it really safer?") that inspired me to mess around with anchor systems. I came up with this (see links to pictures), but I figure it's already got a name.
It seems to me to work quite well! The only extra pieces beyond a normal setup is two rap rings. Is there any kind of bad pulley effect going on in it? The red sling is to prevent severe extension when the middle piece pops. When either side piece pulls out, there isn't too much extension. Additionally, the whole thing is done on a bite (on the far left the end of the bite is clove hitched), so I'm pretty sure that it's redundant, too?
I understand that it's easier to flame someone than it is to help them understand why what they did was incorrect. Yet, if there are problems in it, explain to me what exactly is wrong so I don't accidentally replicate it in another anchor.
Full structure:
http://i305.photobucket.com/.../spikeddem/macro.jpg
Left Side:
http://i305.photobucket.com/...keddem/leftmicro.jpg
Right side:
http://i305.photobucket.com/...eddem/rightmicro.jpg
Bottom:
http://i305.photobucket.com/...ddem/bottommacro.jpg
Here it is taking a pull from an angle:
http://i305.photobucket.com/...m/directionforce.jpg
Failure of middle placement:
http://i305.photobucket.com/...eddem/middlepull.jpg
Failure of side placement:
http://i305.photobucket.com/...keddem/sidepulls.jpg
(This post was edited by spikeddem on May 23, 2008, 1:04 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by spikeddem
() on May 23, 2008, 1:02 AM
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Post edited by spikeddem
() on May 23, 2008, 1:04 AM
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Post edited by spikeddem
() on May 23, 2008, 1:04 AM
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