Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [mattb1921] when you zig and/or zag: Edit Log




billl7


Jul 28, 2008, 8:28 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890

Re: [mattb1921] when you zig and/or zag
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mattb1921 wrote:
If the second can do BC with ease then take it to C set the Belay up and then protect CD. YOu can even simul climb BC if you were worried. It sounds like you would want to Belay at D to bring the second over from C before going up. It seems slow but better than putting your second in an akward situation.
That solves the 2nd issue: B, C, and D all need anchor-like protection because of the decking potential from the slack introduced if pro at one of them fails. That is counter to a vertical route:

A common rule of thumb is to have two pieces of pro between the leader and the deck. In the middle of a vertical pitch this can mean quite a space between pieces of pro which may not true for such zig-zags.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Jul 28, 2008, 8:34 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Jul 28, 2008, 8:34 PM


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