Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [dingus] Flaking on a hanging belay and communication problems: Edit Log




Partner j_ung


Aug 12, 2008, 5:50 PM

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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Re: [dingus] Flaking on a hanging belay and communication problems
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dingus wrote:
I've used the rope tug system for more than 20 years and use it EVEN WHEN shouting or simple verbal communication is possible.

It works. Even if your partner won't use it there is nothing to prevent you from using them. Tug rope, then holler, perhaps he'll see the light????

In terms of half rope management....

I've used half ropes for about 2 decades as well. As for balay management I don't do any differently with half ropes as I would singles.

If there is a decent ledge the rope gets piled as it comes out of the device - two ropes treated as one. I take care not to kick or otherwise turn over the pile.

Now I'm confused about something - why didn't YOU lead the nexty pitch?

When there is a single leader, the rope pile 'flip' (to get her end back on top) is prone to tangles. One strategy is to simply re-pile the rope to get the leader end back on top - the belayer does this; its not the leader's problem.

If its a hanging belay I loop the rope over my tie-in anchor or use a sling on a piece of convenient pro. I don't like ropes hanging down below me where they can catch in cracks and on knobs, etc. A stuck belay end can be a REAL problem.

Lastly, it is the belayer's responsibility to detect and deal with belay rope snarls real time. Anticipate - don't wait for the snarl to reach your hand. You should be monitoring the 'next 20 feet' or so real time, thus giving yourself some advance warning that a cluster is approaching.

Lastly, 'leader's perogitive' on many optional techniques, such as belay commands and rope piles. When you lead, YOU get to decide.

DMT

Ditto all that. I'll add that if all communication breaks down and even tugs are not possible, I and my partners have an understanding that when the rope runs out, the second climbs on.


(This post was edited by j_ung on Aug 12, 2008, 5:58 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by j_ung () on Aug 12, 2008, 5:58 PM


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