Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [btreanor] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible: Edit Log




sspssp


Sep 30, 2008, 1:37 PM

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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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Re: [btreanor] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible
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There are some good suggestions here. I will try and add a few more. Depending on your budget (and what you already own), you can shave weight by getting lighter items.
"Approach shoes" range from under a pound to over two. That is a big difference. My retro tennies (although not very durable) are only 15 ounces. Many routes I will walk off in my Mythos.
I'm not making very many desperate clips on long Yosemite routes. Get the lightest, wire gates out there. My locking belay biner is also a lightweight biner. If you rack each cam with its own biner, don't carry any extra biners (or elaborate anchor setups).
Minimize the large cams. My typical Yosemite rack has only one large hand sized piece (Friends are a little lighter than Camalots), but extra finger sized cams.
Carry a knife, but not a typical 3~4" pocket knife. A 1.5" blade with plastic handle is plenty large enough (but make sure it is serrated). (A knife is important if you catch your shirt in your belay device, if the rope gets hopelessly jammed on rapel--and you need to cut it to continue down, etc.)
There are lighter options than fleece. A hat (or at least a handband) is the most warmth for weight you can get. Wind shirts are good (I like my Transition feather weight T)
Food and water can vary. I might carry 1 liter of water, 4 or 5 gel packs, and a ziplock of trail mix. On the same climb, my parter will carry 2 liters of water and no food at all. Each climber having their own pack is the way to go (and your food and clothing is always with you). I add powdered gatorade to my water to help keep my blood sugar up.
Unless you know you need two ropes to get off, minimize how often you carry a second rope (Most pitches in Yosemite are 30m or less and you can almost always set up a natural anchor to rap).
There are some very light weight head lamps out there. Use lithium batteries.


(This post was edited by sspssp on Sep 30, 2008, 1:39 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sspssp () on Sep 30, 2008, 1:38 PM
Post edited by sspssp () on Sep 30, 2008, 1:39 PM


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