Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible: Edit Log


Oct 1, 2008, 2:52 PM

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Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible
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Durin wrote:

Again, regarding approach shoes...I'm going to need something light that can get me down north dome gulley, steck salathe, the cathedrals...etc. Would anyone who's posted here really advise doing that in tennies or running shoes? I'm looking into Chaco sandals.

Most "approach" shoes are off-trail shoes with big treads. I prefer something with a more climbing shoe bottom or "dot rubber". Trail shoes are heavy and don't smear that well on open slabs.

Even the shoes geared more towards climbers tend to be heavy (with good support). Maybe ok for a long a approach with a pack or wearing on an alpine scramble. For Yosemite descents, I want something lighter. Lighter tends to wear out faster but I only wear/carry the light shoes on climbs like East Butress. For cragging (or routes that I don't need separate descent shoes) I wear something else. I'm not carrying a 2 pound pair of shoes up a climb.

I've come down north dome gulley, and Steck Salathe in my retro-tennies (or equivalent). I would carry a light pair of running shoes before carrying a heavy approach shoe.

Durin wrote:

Also, are there any good alternatives to both Nalgenes and bladders? I've had three bladders leak on me over the years. Two from Camelbak, one from Platypus.
Bladders are convenient but dangerous. I have had generally good luck with the Platypus, but I replace it regularly. On an all day route, I might put a liter of water in the bladder and then carry 12~16 oz of water in a disposal water bottle. If the bladder entirely leaks, I have some emergency water. When I finish the bladder, I know I can still take a drink at the top.

Durin wrote:

The marmot wind shirt does look awesome. I figure with that, then depending on the circumstances, a patagonia capilene and a light rain jacket should keep me comfortable for most long single-day climbs.

Any other food ideas? The gel debate is interesting.

In reply to:
ALSO, don't be scared off by the captain

I'm not, I look forward to it eagerly. I'm only 20, so the regular northwest face and the Nose both loom on the horizon :)

If you want a "rain jacket" in addition to a wind shirt, I would do a somewhat warmer shirt that breathes well and then a super-light wind/rain shell. The shell can double as a wind jacket for cold belays.

Food and water depends on how your body responds. People go overboard thinking gels have to be consumed with water (since that is what the directions on the packet say). A handful of nuts also "have to be consumed with water" for best digestion, but they don't come with directions. I can climb all day on gel and still drink less water than my partner can. He either dehydrates more quickly than me (or suffers more). My athletic performace drops more quickly with a drop in blood sugar.

I wouldn't try to scare any one off from E.B. of ElCap, but I do disagree with the previous poster who didn't think it much harder than E.B. of Middle. Although you can aid through the 10b crux on the ElCap route, the ElCap route has a longer approach and descent, some wide climbing--mandatory at the start and then a later offwidth section that can only be avoided by a somewhat runout 5.9 face. Finally it has a 5.7X section near the top. That is way more difficult, at least for the leader, than anything on Middle (it is perhaps not much harder for the second). A very fun route.


(This post was edited by sspssp on Oct 1, 2008, 3:35 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by sspssp () on Oct 1, 2008, 2:56 PM
Post edited by sspssp () on Oct 1, 2008, 2:57 PM
Post edited by sspssp () on Oct 1, 2008, 2:58 PM
Post edited by sspssp () on Oct 1, 2008, 2:59 PM
Post edited by sspssp () on Oct 1, 2008, 3:35 PM

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