Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible: Edit Log


Oct 1, 2008, 4:19 PM

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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731

Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible
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My partner and I carry all our own crap, even on every pitch of EB of El Cap.

Arches is still a III just for length. But for perspective: my partner and I have climbed Arches in 1.5~2 hours and EB of Middle in 2~2.5 hours (simul climbing). On EB of ElCap there are a few really easy pitches in the middle of the climb we simul, but I'm not up to simuling any of the other pitches on EB of ElCap. Our time on EB of ElCap is more like 6~7 hours.

Getting caught in the rain can be really serious. I got caught in Yosemite thunderstorm on a June day (forecast was sunny in mid-90s) with a cotton t-shirt and light, nylon shell and was pretty shocked how cold I got (even though the wind was fairly mild and the air wasn't that cold). A light shell with nothing underneath doesn't do much in the rain because it plasters down on your skin and the rain is cold through the thin material (even if stay "mostly" dry).

However, I don't carry much rain gear. But I do my "serious" climbs on days with good forecasts and I'm pretty cautious when clouds build. I've rapped off more than once (because I didn't have rain gear) when it never rained.

For late spring to early fall on an all day climb, I will typically take (at most) my Transition featherweight T and a super light shell. Is that "enough" to ride out a cold, hard thunderstorm? Well, I wouldn't expect to die, but I wouldn't say it is enough either.

Horsetails comes off the top of ElCap a little east of EB of ElCap. Go to and do a search on Horsetail falls.

(This post was edited by sspssp on Oct 1, 2008, 4:27 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by sspssp () on Oct 1, 2008, 4:22 PM
Post edited by sspssp () on Oct 1, 2008, 4:27 PM

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