Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible: Edit Log


Oct 1, 2008, 4:21 PM

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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible
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Durin wrote:
So, if you were to lead that 5.7X pitch on EB of El Cap, would you still carry all of your own shit? Or was that more of just a general rule?

I did carry my own shit up that lead, yes. As with others, I don't take much on routes like that.

In reply to:
If EB of middle is III, is Arches II?

Hmmm, good point. I guess the techniques that render the E butt of middle a III are the same things you'd need to turn RA into a II - a decent amount of simul-climbing and not getting stuck behind slower parties.

In reply to:
what/where is horsetail falls?

Horsetail Falls is a seasonal snowmelt water fall down the east side of El Cap. It dries up by late spring / mid-summer most years. Its not a deluge, more like a light shower.

So in the mornings the winds aren't blowing and the water falls straight down - sorta down onto routes like Born Under a Bad Sign I think somewhere in that vicinity (don't hold me to that)

Yeah and spring in the Valley - oh man you get amped to do something long! And the south side routes why they face north and hold the cold a lot longer. So you might be all keen to jump on something testy and you look over there at El Cap basking in sunlight and suddenly you're

on 6p of the East Butt when the winds start kicking up. The first trickle of water drops blowing from the falls sorta clues you in real fast as to why the granite on that pitch has a particularly varnishy patina.

El Cap forms a bit of a funnel in the valley so those afternoon winds can get pretty stout. They are what let big wall climbers still get on in decent fashion, even in August.

So if the wind is decent? The East Butt gets HAMMERED.

In reply to:
If I've got a wind shirt and no rain jacket, and it pours, am I screwed?

Depends. If you get nighted as a result of that storm, you could be in trouble depending upon how cold it gets that night. I only take rain-ish gear if I think I'll need it though.

Cheers. Sounds like you're in for a great run dude. You're gonna love it!

(This post was edited by dingus on Oct 1, 2008, 4:24 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by dingus () on Oct 1, 2008, 4:24 PM

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