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Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [anthonymason] Block Leads and Rope Bucket:
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lambone
Oct 14, 2008, 9:39 PM
Views: 4076
Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1399
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My Block system with Partners is this:
3 ropes- Lead Line, Haul line, and 6mill 200ft tag line
Tag line is stacked in it's own small rope bag (small Metoliuos wall bag)
Lead and Haul stacked in Fish Snake Charmer.
When leading in blocks I will get to the belay, second ties a knot in the tag line and clips on: tag bag with extra tag line still flaked inside, haul rope with hauler, water, bullet pack, radio, extra rack, and anything else.
First I build the anchor, go off belay, then pull up any extra slack in the lead line and fix it to the power point.
Next, I pull up the tag with a Petzl Mini Traxion. Set the hauler and haulline on a seperate anchor and get the haulbag free from below ASAP.
Then I restack my Tag line, and put myself on belay with a grigri with a fatty steel auto-safety locker and the rest of the lead line, back up knot of course.
Then I lead out while the second cleans...and/or third jugs a free line. The second then gets to the belay and haul the bag while I'm still leading. Then as soon as the bag is up they can restack the haul line, and put me on belay.
If perfectly timed this all happens before I either 1. run out of slack in the lead line. 2. Run out of gear for the pitch. If not perfectly timed I start yelling at the second to hurry the F-up and smoke a cig.
One thing I have decided to do lately is use two seperate figure eight on a bight knots (not clovehitches which can sieze) at the power point, one for the cleaners fixed line, and one for my soloingt anchor. That way if I whip there isn't a ton of force applied to one knot pulling in two seperate directions (up and down). If you do whip the second jugging on the cleaning rope will give you somewhat of a dynamic belay. Don't factor-2 on the anchor, put in good gear right off the belay and use a couple screamers!
All this is dependeant on the second being willing and physically able to do the hauling on their own. Or having a third partner to help with heavy pigs. Often I don't start leading in Blocks and short fixing until higher on the wall when the pigs are lighter. At the bottom the hauling just takes too long and requires both bodies on the line to move it.
(This post was edited by lambone on Oct 14, 2008, 9:55 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by lambone
() on Oct 14, 2008, 9:40 PM
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Post edited by lambone
() on Oct 14, 2008, 9:43 PM
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Post edited by lambone
() on Oct 14, 2008, 9:55 PM
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