Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [evanwish] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion: Edit Log




salamanizer


Nov 26, 2008, 1:02 PM

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Registered: Jul 2, 2004
Posts: 879

Re: [evanwish] Aid Climbing Grand Illusion
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evanwish wrote:
ok now thats just strange... i went to the gym last night (i know, i know..) and ended up climbing that .12 crack and getting 15' up a 5.13


so maybe its not toooooo far off in the future.
thanks for the motivation!!!

Uh Evan, that natural .13 route in the gym there (which I'll confirm is at least 5.13) doesn't have a move close to .13 until the last 10ft. The first half is all .11+. And that .12 crack is really only about .11c, not sustained and only 25ft long. I've (spray) lead the .13 several times and have done 12 laps on the crack, downclimbing between each lap. Yesterday infact I walked it in my socks and I know I still don't have even a remote prare of sending that thing anytime soon.

That being said, you can aid it at moderate C1. It would be great practice, you can do it in the rain, and even if your aid climbing skills suck, you can work out the kinks on this thing as it is steep and awkward. Get an adjustable fifi hook or your abs will suffer. Triple up on your mid sized cams and back clean... but not too much.

And GO!

Edited to add. Fat Merchants crack is a serious route. The crux is 50ft up in a bombay squeeze chimney over sharp talus. You can't get pro until well after the crux and it's as hard as .10b chimneys get.
Patience, make sure you're comfortable free soloing hard .10 OW's before you attempt it, cuz that's what you'll be doing.

Maybe TR it first.


(This post was edited by salamanizer on Nov 26, 2008, 1:06 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by salamanizer () on Nov 26, 2008, 1:06 PM


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