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Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [Valarc] Aid climbing article in newest Rock & Ice (Issue 174):
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dingus
Dec 11, 2008, 3:57 PM
Views: 6344
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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Valarc wrote: I just find it frustrating that there are different standards depending on how scared you are.
You want equivalence where none exists.
I would suggest this valarc my friend... don't lament the inconsistencies in the mad world of climbing. CELEBRATE THEM!
Consistency in climbing equates to a vanilla world. Given the least common denominator tendenancy, a consistent climbing world will be dull and predictable.
Climbing is an idiotic thing to do, on balance. It makes no sense. Yet we do it.
So don't start expecting to find consistent logic. This crap doesn't make sense BECAUSE it doesn't make sense - how could it????
In reply to: If it's OK to fuck up the rock, it should be just as OK for a sport weenie as it is for a big wall'er.
OK, I see from whence you come - a society of rules and norms and shit. You want to fit in and the best way to do that is sto study and adhere to the rule book. I get that.
Well there ain't no rule book in climbing. There is YOU and there is everyone else. You have to find your own accomodation between the personal and the group and understand others will not agree.
I rebel against group-think in this sport. Group think suggests there is one correct way to belay, one correct way to climb a wall, blah blah blah.
In reply to: I understand the circumstances are different, and the level of commitment is different, but the rock doesn't care if you're in the "death zone" or not.
Indeed the rock doesn't care if you do THIS to it:
Its a rock, dude. It has no feelings. It is not hallowed. It is not subject to worship. We humans bulldoze it, drill it, carve it, crush it, make things with it, toss it - well you get the drift. Its a rock. It has no intrinsic human qualities at all - NONE.
The only 'value' a rock has is that which we assign to it. And clearly not all humans assign the same value to a given rock.
In reply to: It would be one thing if the big wall community didn't also often seem to be the loudest community when it comes to telling everyone else what is and isn't proper ethics.
There you go with the group think again. Forget about that shit dude, it is a misplaced emotion. Instead... I suggest you focus on YOU and in this case the commentator about big walling, and maybe the guy who did the FA of the route what got retroed - Eric Kohl. Forget about all that other tripe - its meaningless.
In reply to: I just don't like the attitude of "do as I say, not as as I do,
So fucking what????
In reply to: unless you're so scared you're about to shit yourself".
Ever grabbed a draw to prevent a fall?
In reply to: Or alternatively, the more ego-oriented "I'm a bigger man than you, because I climb scarier shit, and therefore its OK for me to destroy the rock if I feel its necessary, as long as I do it in a way that might kill someone."
If the 'rock destruction' involved in hard aid is so concerning to you bro, feel free to skip those fixed bolts next time you climb bro.
In reply to: I have no problem with drilling hook holes, and hammering pins doesn't really bother me. But neither does rap bolting, hangdogging, or pinkpointing.
Please consider: ALL (not one but ALL) of the aid climbers I know personally? Do ALL THOSE THINGS you just mentioned, me included. We don't seem to suffer this need for consistency and a vanilla world where all rules are the same and everyone plays the same fucking game.
In reply to: I guess what I'm saying is, if certain segments of the community wouldn't be so damn judgmental
I find this statement the height of irony! I would caution you to beware - as noobs traverse the skills to journeyhood some of them develop a certain sense of entitlement and a very definite resentment toward those who preceeded them.
In reply to: of the way others do things, I wouldn't be nearly as bothered by the whole discussion.
You think about what I said my friend. Go have a couple of beers and laugh it up with some close climber friends. Talk to them - you'll see yer old Uncle Dingus has it right.
DMT
(This post was edited by dingus on Dec 11, 2008, 4:00 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by dingus
() on Dec 11, 2008, 3:58 PM
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Post edited by dingus
() on Dec 11, 2008, 4:00 PM
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