Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [pbcowboy77] Portaledge in Zion: Edit Log


Dec 12, 2008, 1:58 PM

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Registered: Jan 9, 2004
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Re: [pbcowboy77] Portaledge in Zion
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pbcowboy77 wrote:
scottb wrote:
This is from the Supertopo Zion page:

supertopo wrote:
Leave No Trace
Sandstone climbing and the desert environment in general is fragile. Here are some guidelines for climbing on sandstone:

- When hiking, stay on approach trails and off the crunchy, black cryptobiotic soil. If there is no clear approach trail, stay in the bottom of river drainages when possible.
- Keep your rack from scraping against the rock.
- While rappelling or belaying, prevent your ropes from carving grooves in the rock. Rappel slings wear out quickly in this environment; be prepared to replace them with rock-colored webbing.
- Pitons destroy sandstone. Most popular aid climbs are done clean.
- Use clean gear whenever possible (except cam hooks which damage the rock) - check to see if your intended route has been climbed clean.-
- Avoid hauling if possible. Some of the popular routes are getting scarred with white streaks where haul bags have scraped off the brown surface coloring of the sandstone.
- Free climb as much as possible. Every time gear is weighted it erodes the sandstone a little more. It seems negligible now, but over decades, weighting gear as little as possible will extend the life of Zion's routes.

Thanks Scottb, at least I'm not the only one on this site that cares about the future of Zion, climbing, future climbers and nature...

So it's free climb or don't climb?

FYI. When I was there last year, we talked to the rangers before heading up. They didn't tell us not to haul. The solo climber above was on a 3-day trip. The team below on a two day trip. If the rangers had a problem with this, they had opportunities to mention it.

(This post was edited by tomtom on Dec 12, 2008, 2:04 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by tomtom () on Dec 12, 2008, 2:04 PM

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