Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Starting in Aid climbing: Edit Log




Lilallan


Dec 19, 2008, 10:44 PM

Views: 2875

Registered: Dec 19, 2008
Posts: 6

Starting in Aid climbing
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Ok, so basicly, this is my first post but i've been reading around for more than a year.

Since winter kicked in here and i dont ice climb, i decided to start aid climbing, witch is possible even à -20 degres. Anyway, heres what i started doing.

I went to my local crag (30 meters high), set up a fixed rope on top. At the bottom, i build a nice anchor and tie myself in with a clove hitch (self belay) and i set up a prussik tie to my harness on the fix rope also as a backup. So basicly,i feed up slack with the clove hitch as i progress and i pull the prussik up also as i go up...

Ok, tested and approved, i took aid falls and my fixed line keeps my alive :P lol...

The question is, i find it REALLY hard to progress sometimes. Ive been trying around on a 5.4 free route that doesnt offer constant protection.... so i often have to use my talon hook (yes i only have one) The talon hook helps alot in the progress, but ive been wondering, how much hooking as to go? :P

Anyways, im quite mixed up lately! lol, its all fun but i guess i should maybe start on a easier route... i could maybe try on a crack that goes all way up? easier free routes are not necessarily easy aid routes i guess!?!?.... what do you look for when starting a aid rout? a full system crack? lots of hooking spots?


(This post was edited by Lilallan on Dec 19, 2008, 10:47 PM)



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Post edited by Lilallan () on Dec 19, 2008, 10:47 PM


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