Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible: Edit Log


Dec 23, 2008, 8:54 AM

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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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Re: [Durin] All-day routes: pack weight is horrible
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When I was doing a lot of all day routes (several years ago, now), my partner and I paired our mutual equipment down to 2 liters a piece in camelbacks, a couple of clif bars or fruit snacks (my go to energy food) in a pants pocket, and an incredibly streamlined rack. If weren't sure to need doubles of anything, we did not bring it. We didn't carry any piece larger than tight hands if we didn't need it. Wiregates on everything. At the end of any given pitch, I was typically cobbling together an anchor from the six or so nuts I had left. Between the two of us, we'd have a dozen slings. We carried only one nut tool, and about 6 locking carabiners (1 for each belay device, 1 for each daisy chain/cow's tail, 2 for utility)

The only reason we carried approach shoes was because all of the routes we did had mile-long approaches, and the walkoff deposited us back at the vehicle. I typically wore a t-shirt, a midweight capilene top, some lightweight softshell pants (much lighter than our usual carharts) and if it was chilly, a primaloft vest. I occasionaly brought a disposable camera, they tend to be lighter than any digital set up, although the image quality suffers considerably.

Our only luxury was a #9 hex, which served as our hand-sized piece, nut tool hammer, and emergency rappel device.

We also had changeovers dialed, and discussions were kept to a minimum. If I had to pass on a lead, my partner would take it, no questions asked. If he had to pass on a lead, I would take it. The climbs we did were all of a sort that the only way out was up. In fact, our mantra when gunning for the top was "lets get off this thing".

Your approach to all of these climbs is that the easiest way off is via the top, and all of your choices should be devoted to that goal. My bail slings, for instance, were primarily my long slings (I prefer tied double length slings, as I can convert them to an aider easier).

It will take some experience before you can start pairing your equipment down to what will enable a one-day ascent of anything, but keep in mind that once you plan for a comfortable bivouac, you're no longer going for in-a-day anything.

(This post was edited by petsfed on Dec 23, 2008, 8:55 AM)

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Post edited by petsfed () on Dec 23, 2008, 8:55 AM

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