Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [USnavy] Training to lead multi-pitch?: Edit Log


Jan 15, 2009, 4:56 AM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [USnavy] Training to lead multi-pitch?
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Lots of good things said above: gear confidence, pitch-rigging confidence, and efficiency (e.g., climbing pitch-after-pitch cleanly). This probably translates into more mileage. Single-pitch mileage is good but to get things dialed it can be just two-pitch, three-pitch, four-pitch mileage.

Keep track of your per-pitch rate at a given grade. When planning, allow for getting tired (i.e., slowing down) later in the day. One doesn't always have to complete that route of, say, 12 pitches. Check the beta. For example, as granite_grrl said, if the descent is rapping the route then maybe only plan to do 3 pitches this time - mindful that other parties may be below. Set a turnaround time and stick to it. Know the bail points for the route. The upper pitches will still be waiting next time.

About getting your head together: After more mileage on the sharp end, you might be surprised to find yourself feeling more confident above the 1st pitch. On harder (i.e., steeper) routes, there's often (not always) not so much to hit during a fall once you are well off the deck.

Bill L

(This post was edited by billl7 on Jan 15, 2009, 5:01 AM)

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Post edited by billl7 () on Jan 15, 2009, 5:00 AM
Post edited by billl7 () on Jan 15, 2009, 5:01 AM

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