Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [vegastradguy] Training to lead multi-pitch?: Edit Log


Jan 22, 2009, 11:30 PM

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Registered: Jan 12, 2006
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Re: [vegastradguy] Training to lead multi-pitch?
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vegastradguy wrote:
Birdland, 5.7 - not really run-out, but it may feel like it as the 4th pitch requires some creativity to get good gear.

Yes, this might be good. For the grade, I thought Birdland had a lot of easy climbing. I just remember needing several very small cams (like small Alien or C3 size), so make sure you have them.

Someone else mentioned Black Orpheus. Even though it has a lot of relatively easy climbing and the crux is a sport move, I think this is a terrible beginner trad leader route. The approach and route is way too long for time management-challenged people, the rap/walk off a nightmare for sport climbers unused to route finding, and weather epics can and do occur on it, regardless of how sunny the day starts out.

Edited to add: otherwise (about the psychological and intellectual training required) I think rgold's post was "gold"!

(This post was edited by aerili on Jan 22, 2009, 11:53 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by aerili () on Jan 22, 2009, 11:52 PM
Post edited by aerili () on Jan 22, 2009, 11:53 PM

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