Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [USnavy] Training to lead multi-pitch?: Edit Log


Jan 23, 2009, 7:40 AM

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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Re: [USnavy] Training to lead multi-pitch?
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USnavy wrote:
dingus wrote:

Get your ass on some routes and lead them. If you want to lead, LEAD. Stop hiding behind a training regime.

Suck it up buttercup - On Belay. Now STUF and start climbing, we have a route to send.

I donít have any multi-pitch where I live to climb. Thatís the point of the thread.

All right - my advice Hawaii-man (I know the limited resources with which you deal):

1. Onsite EVERYTHING. Do NOT dog ANY routes, period. Ratchet DOWN your grade asipraitons to the point you can lead every climb you do without resorting to aid. Now do those routes repeatedly. Try to do (considering route length here) between 10-20 pitches each day you go out. Relead the same routes over and over if you must - but get used to logging mileage, not grades and projects.

Projecting will seriously hold you back in moderate trad.

The biggest psychological issue imo, is this - you have to embrace the inherent risk of moderate trad. You are going to HAVE to accept you will ROUTINELY be facing maiming falls on moderate terrain and you must reconcile yourself to that notion.

It takes audacity to some extent. A lot of us deploy ignorace (as in ignoring the reality of the dangers) as a defensive mechanism.

And trad WILL put you in situations where nothing but your fingers, toes, and the power of your mind (and nothing else) is that will keep you alive. It WILL. If you find that possibility unacceptable then you'll either have to go through a transformation or you are going to be miserable.


(This post was edited by dingus on Jan 23, 2009, 7:42 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by dingus () on Jan 23, 2009, 7:42 AM

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