Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [USnavy] Training to lead multi-pitch?: Edit Log


Jan 23, 2009, 12:06 PM

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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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Re: [USnavy] Training to lead multi-pitch?
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USnavy wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
USnavy wrote:
So I have a reasonable amount of experience leading in general.
After skimming your ascent log, it looks like you TR more than anything else. Not to be a dick, but don't get in over your head, that's when bad things can occur. At this stage, if you want to climb a multipitch, find someone more experienced who's willing to lead the whole thing and give you some pitches if it's something you can handle. Challenge yourself in the right ways (like what vegastradguy said) but don't rush!

I donít TR more than anything, I lead more than anything. Many of those TR assents are TR only routes; they canít be lead. Many of my redpoints are not logged for the routes are not in the database yet. Others are R rated and thus I donít lead them. Some are 5.11 trad and I canít lead trad that hard so I only TR'ed them.

So add it to the database!

USnavy wrote:
[But I do get a lot of mileage on lead. I lead every chance I get.

These do not necessarily go hand in hand.

USnavy wrote:
The only time I donít lead is if my partner does not know how to lead belay or if I am trying to work out the moves on a specific climb or if the route is overly dangerous (R / X). I would be absolutely insane to think I could lead any multi-pitch if I backed out on leading safe sport routes.

You mean single pitch trad, right?

You're just striking me as if you're looking for justification to try multipitch or something, which isn't a good idea to do on your own if you aren't solid in single pitch trad. If you were ready, you'd know it and we wouldn't be having this converstation. Posting for advice on route choice is one thing, posting to get an idea if you are ready is different. Be honest with yourself; you said above that you don't have much experience with trad overall, so jumping on a multipitch with someone who is as or less experienced than yourself probably isn't a great call. Sorry.

Sure, plenty of people puzzle multipitch out without a mentor, guide or someone more experienced than themselves, but they usually have solid lead time on single pitch beforehand. With someone more experienced, you can afford to tackle bigger things since the pressure isn't all on you. Start small and build. And listen to RGold, he posted some good stuff in particular.

(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Jan 23, 2009, 12:08 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by wanderlustmd () on Jan 23, 2009, 12:08 PM

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