Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [xtrmecat] How about this Nose itinerary?: Edit Log


Feb 3, 2009, 11:29 AM

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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938

Re: [xtrmecat] How about this Nose itinerary?
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Seems they are preparing pretty well if they have found somewhere to lead/jug/clean and haul. Do enough of that anywhere and you will have the basic of wall climbing down well enough for the nose. The Pendo transfers might mess with you a bit.

Hopefully that 1.5hr pitch time isnt a pitch they have done over and over though :)

Once you are walling you are walling...5 pitches or 30 only real difference is the size of the pig. everything else is mental. Some people (few) look at el-cap the first time and are just excited to go for it.. most others are a liitle too overcome to handle it well without a couple warm up bails lol.

I've seen people blast up the salathe first try without any problems and... then there is me who bailed the first three tries on el-cap. I wasn't intimidated AT ALL lol.

My first attempt on el-cap was so sad..dragging some n00b from camp 4 into an attmpt.. I didnt even know how to jug or aid with 2 daisy chains... Got 3 pitches up the free-blast hauling and relized I had a ton to learn technically.

My last bail was from the triple-crack pitch on sheild...yeah we retreated the roof..heh.. I really should do a TR on this. that was another try dragging a newbie up a wall..going a bit too slow..shoulda taken 5 days of water instead of 3...the morning waking at triple cracks realizing we had a day of water and at least 2 days of climbing made me decide to bail...The greatest challenge was keeping the complete mewbie from totally freaking when lowering past the roof..really not that bad but he didnt seem to be enjoying and he dropped one of the ropes that fortunately tangled in another rope and i was able to pull it in..

But I was never remotely inimidated..just overenthusiastic. :)

(This post was edited by skiclimb on Feb 3, 2009, 11:36 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 3, 2009, 11:36 AM

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