Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [TonySF] How about this Nose itinerary?: Edit Log




graniteboy


Feb 4, 2009, 2:02 PM

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Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092

Re: [TonySF] How about this Nose itinerary?
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That's probably a workable nose itinerary...but why not do a few other walls first this year to get your act together on some (less crowded) grade V stuff first? Th Nose ain't going anywhere that I've heard of....

The bailout rate on 1st attempts on the nose is still pretty high....like >50%.....so, as royal robbins said in his old 1970s book "advanced rockcraft"....the way you get ready to do bigwalls is to do lots of little ones first.
And that advice has never been more true than now.
Also...a comment: if you plan of 5 days, I doubt very much that you'll be the ones crawling up someone else's ass and getting slowed down by
them........quite the opposite.

And of course, remember that 5.9 with a big bad wall rack on feels alot more like 10c. I'd definitely recommend that you go do some "starter" walls first...preferably some of the stuff that isn't always a busy freeway of aspiring wall climbers.


(This post was edited by graniteboy on Feb 4, 2009, 4:28 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by graniteboy () on Feb 4, 2009, 4:28 PM


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