Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [baffinislanders] How about this Nose itinerary?: Edit Log


Feb 5, 2009, 11:10 PM

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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938

Re: [baffinislanders] How about this Nose itinerary?
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baffinislanders wrote:
Well, skiclimb, if you want to make public your experience with a Newbie on the shield in 1999, why don't I be the one to explain that the said Newbie had actually completed a big wall at that time, unlike you. Your lying about having completed the Triple Direct the year before, in addition with said newbie having completed a grade V made him think he was capable of the ascent if he had a partner who actually had climbed El Cap as opposed to simply lying about it. Newbie was not stoked to reverse the Shield headwall with you and was super gripped, but part of that was because you didn't display any of the courage and confidence that a typical El Cap veteran would have. Furthermore, part of the lagging on that climb was because you had no portaledge, and insisted on a $9 walmart hammock that took you hours to set up underneath my single, leaving you sleep deprived and malnourished as a result of your soda theory.

The first and only time you climbed El Cap, you were the Newbie, and your strategy of drinking only soda pop based on a rationale of intaking both calories and hydration backfired on you. Apparently the sugar shock and crash impeded your performance enough to cause one of your only leads that your teammates were willing to grant you --on the Shield headwall -- to take over four hours.

Since then, you have stopped climbing entirely yet continue to post on this site as if you are even remotely credible these days. Newbie has climbed about 20 walls (6 on El Cap, including the Nose) and has completed 6 international expeditions, and even he doesn't have the desire to spend time commenting on the strategy for the Nose (which you haven't even come close to climbing), or any other matter unless he's looking for expedition partners or expressing condolences for deceased friends.

Newbie's advice to you; stop spending time behind the computer giving unproven advice to beginners, dig out your dusty harness, and do something for god's sake.

Well Hello Pete ... Your unusually grumpy today. Whats new with us eh?

Yep About 3/4 of what you said is true.

Dead wrong about how much i did on the salathe. Granted me? Those guys were excellent free climbers but I did almost all the aid pitches as they were slower on aid. I did 7 of the last 24 pitches, 2 of those being linked pitches (ie like 4 pitches) The only Aid pitch i didnt do was the roof BecauseI had just done a linked double pitch to get to the roof. The guy who fixed the roof that night wasnt happy about it.. and i'll admit I was pretty tired at that point and just didnt have the will to do it.. he wasnt happy becuase his aid setup sucked and the drag really sucked. Didnt feel too bad about since I had led to fix the pitches the last couple evenings before that.. ending as always by headlight.

On summit day I did the headwall 2 pitches as one linked and it took me almost exactly 2.5 hrs (you know how anal i used to be about my pitch times)and the whole pitch took us 4 hours we all were a bit frustrated with the time on that one. The other 2 did the last four pitches that day. We were back at the cars by 5 or 6pm as i remember.

Nothing I said above to the OP was bad advice or false.

Your climbing experience is way beyond mine on walls these days. I was bit of a creep back in the day and apologized to you years ago about misleading you and outright lying about what I had done.. Things do change in 10 years. I was way too motivated for my own good. A bit of an insecure kid back then. Still that Sheild trip was a blast and I wouldnt trade that experience for anything.

I don't know if it occured to you but we were doing Ok on that climb. Especially considering our experience level. Our speed was fairly average from what i've heard from people who have done the sheild. I was the main reason we had to go down because i thought we'd be faster and I did not plan enough water.

Still I apologize again if what I said in an earlier post offended you. I can see how it might. I certainly wasn't trying to make myself look good at your expense.. I meant it to be a funny story about a couple newbs trying to do too much but it not being a big deal in the end.. how trying and failing is quite worthwhile. 9 years or whatever it was is a long time ago I'd think.

Anycase Next time your in town i hope to see you again. I'll buy the beer and enjoy hearing about your latest fantastic trip as always. Was what, less than a year ago we were enjoting a few beers in the garage while you and Blue were making final preps for a really great trip to Nepal.. I enjoy those times and hope they continue for years to come.

Your Freind as always Derek

(This post was edited by skiclimb on Feb 6, 2009, 8:16 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 5, 2009, 11:12 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 5, 2009, 11:21 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 5, 2009, 11:30 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 5, 2009, 11:42 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 5, 2009, 11:51 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 5, 2009, 11:55 PM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 6, 2009, 12:47 AM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 6, 2009, 12:56 AM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 6, 2009, 12:59 AM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 6, 2009, 1:01 AM
Post edited by skiclimb () on Feb 6, 2009, 8:16 AM

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