Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25?: Edit Log




dynosore


Feb 20, 2009, 1:57 PM

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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [thenose] 140 meter fall on the nose. pro options for pitch 25?
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Yesterday my partner and myself set out to do a free climb of the nose. We wanted to do the whole route with no aid gear (accept for pitch 31). We made it up to pitch 25 when it was my turn to lead. We were linking pitches with two 80 meter twin ropes used as half ropes for lower force. I placed a WC zero 1 cam in a super flaring crack about 10 meters past the belay station. After about 70 meters I started to get super pumped and I fell. The problem was that there was no pro between me and that last WC zero. So I fell 140 meters onto the WC zero 1 on only one twin rope. It was about a factor 1.8er. Anyway the cam held until just about when I stopped on the rope. Then the cam failed and I fell into the belay station at a factor two level.

Sounds like you need to work on your protection skills, that zero should have held.


(This post was edited by dynosore on Feb 20, 2009, 1:58 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by dynosore () on Feb 20, 2009, 1:58 PM


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