Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing: Re: [TonySF] Good practice routes for the Texas Flake chimney?: Edit Log




clintcummins


Feb 20, 2009, 2:21 PM

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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 135

Re: [TonySF] Good practice routes for the Texas Flake chimney?
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The chimneying on Texas Flake is easier than 5.8 if you go the right way. There is a 5.8 move to get into the base of the chimney. Then you walk along the base of the chimney to the far side. Chimney up that (easy width) and then traverse to the top with your feet on the edge of the flake.

If you chimney straight up in the middle of the flake, that is slick and 5.8. You can make it easier either way by leaving your rack in the base of the chimney - clip it to your haul line with 40' of slack. Take a couple of draws for the anchor, and then haul up the rack.

If you go the easy way, the chimneying is about 5.4, so you could train with something like the left variation to Reed's Pinnacle Regular route. This is the one which intersects Reed's Direct at the end of the first pitch and then crosses it, staying in the chimney behind the huge flake.

Here's a list of chimneys under 5.9 for training if you want to up your skills:

297. Gilligan's Chicken p1 5.4
487. The Iota 5.4
1215. Swan Slab Chimney 5.5
504. Reed's Pinnacle - flake chimney start 5.6
1221. un SS j 5.6
234. Capital Punishment 5.7
294. Pat Pinnacle 5.7
439. Chimney Sweep 5.7
500. The Remnant - Right Side 5.7
581. Mojo chimney flake 5.7
1214. Swan Slab Squeeze 5.7
1430. Uncle Fanny 5.7 *
185. The Cookie - Original 5.8
1034. Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **
1475. Trial by Fire 5.8
2050. Chockblock Chimney 5.8
2117. Tilted Mitten - Right Side 5.8 *

(This post was edited by clintcummins on Feb 20, 2009, 2:25 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by clintcummins () on Feb 20, 2009, 2:25 PM


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