Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [andrewG] a few concerns: Edit Log




USnavy


Feb 23, 2009, 5:59 PM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 2667

Re: [andrewG] a few concerns
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andrewG wrote:
USnavy wrote:
I would also recommend quickdraws with a strong open gate strength for the first few bolts.

Why? If you are that concerned just put some lockers on a couple of your draws. Just curious. I've never heard of someone buying gear for it's improper use strength ratings.

As others said, because of gate flutter. If he takes a hard fall at the first bolt on some biner with a 7 kN open gate strength, and the gate opens during the fall, itís over. Impact force skyrockets with weight. Thatís why ropes tested at 55 kg hold exponentially more falls then when tested at 80 kg.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 23, 2009, 6:00 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Feb 23, 2009, 6:00 PM


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