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Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [brendeneng] Aid Climbing Gear:
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salamanizer
Mar 3, 2009, 2:57 AM
Views: 8081
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
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This is hands down the best biner for attaching your aiders to your dasies when leading.
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=583
A keylock notchless head is super important as cleaning the biner from a clusterfukk is nearly un-avoidable and nearly impossible when there's a notch.
An oval (not Doval or other such "D" shaped oval) is important in reducing the chances of biner shift, which can make or break a placement. Also, things rack better and are less likely to get loaded under something else. Nothing like needing that Talon hook and realising it's shifted it's way under where you clipped into your last placement and you're standing on it.
A locker is important, not so much when you're leading, but when you're jugging. Having the locking oval on your dasies makes changing over from lead to follow a quicker process. You just clip your jumars in, lock em down and you're off.
Also, when you reach the anchor (if it's bolts) you just clip in and you're off. No fukking around wasting time, you're able to fix the lead line and set up for the haul immediately. When seconding, as soon as the ropes fixed, you're clipped in (one jumar on the fixed line, one dasie clipped to a bolt) with your dasies, the anchor is already cleaned by the time your leaders ready for the pig to fly. As soon as it's gone you're jugging.
(This post was edited by salamanizer on Mar 3, 2009, 3:04 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by salamanizer
() on Mar 3, 2009, 3:03 AM
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Post edited by salamanizer
() on Mar 3, 2009, 3:04 AM
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