|
|
Forums:
Climbing Disciplines:
Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Re: [Lazlo] Aid climbing article in newest Rock & Ice (Issue 174):
Edit Log
|
|
justsendingits
Mar 3, 2009, 5:53 PM
Views: 4600
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 1070
|
No but seriously, I have put in plenty of bolts in Yosemite and other areas. I have not read the article so I can't comment on that one. I will say this though, Erik Kohl does not put up public service routes, keeping the character of the route is important to a lot of us who climb in the ditch. With that said some of the routes in the valley were put up by climbers like charlie porter and others who had little money at the time, dowels,crappy rivets and what not were used because they were cheap, with no thought of putting up a route for the public. My guess is that Porter thought very few would ever climb routes like t-trip 30+ years later.
He used the crappy rivets just to move up, many were poorly placed, which happens sometimes when you solo and you get super worked.
When I replace an unsafe rivet I prefer to replace with 3/8 If I am going to go through the effort of replacing a bolt, it might as well be a real good one that is going to last, but lately I have been using 1/4 rivets to replace lead rivets just because I can hand drill them sooo much faster. But I don't trip to much when other climbers give me a hard time about replacing 1/4 with 3/8 While I think it is super important to keep the character of the route, replacing a 1/4 with a 3/8 doesn't change the character, at least to me it don't. I mean I know analogy's are BS but a lot of the climbers who put up these FA's are llike a father who creates a child and never comes back to take care of that child. And while I think it important to contact the FA before re -bolting, I don't HAVE to get approval from them to swap out an 1/4 for an 3/8
Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but a lot of you have never even done a big wall, not that I don't think you have a great imagination, but it's hard for you to fully understand what it takes and more important what you go through emotionally when you climb a big wall, or better yet solo something like half dome, and I don't mean the reg. route.
But the sure don't stop a lot of you from railing on someone about their style of big wqll climbing or hating on aid in general.
I have more respect for the climbers who go out and chop my bolts than you monday morning quarterbacks here on RC. at least they are out doing what they believe in and not spraying online. Get out there and climb, either place a bolt or chop one, otherwise you are not even a blip on the radar screen as far as impact on Yosemite or wherever you climb.
(This post was edited by justsendingits on Mar 3, 2009, 5:58 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
