Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: Re: [gblauer] GELSA 5.4 ~ Logistical Beta Needed: Edit Log




marc801


Jun 1, 2009, 10:56 PM

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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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Re: [gblauer] GELSA 5.4 ~ Logistical Beta Needed
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gblauer wrote:
If you are using doubles, you can do Disneyland in 1 pitch.
But it's not a good idea and your second will probably hate you.
Communication sucks, requiring lots of screaming.
With the rope stretch involved, the second can hit a ledge if not the ground if they fall off one of the crux moves that's relatively low on P1. (I know - I helped evac a second with a badly sprained ankle thanks to this stunt. Remarkably similar to an incident on Drunkard's Delight, when the leader went to the GT ledge in one pitch. (The crux moves on DD are about 8 - 10 feet off the ground.) That one was indeed a broken ankle. I was "lucky" enough to be there for that one as well.)


(This post was edited by marc801 on Jun 1, 2009, 11:01 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by marc801 () on Jun 1, 2009, 11:01 PM


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