Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [ckirkwood9] Climbing advise: Edit Log


Aug 21, 2009, 9:28 AM

Views: 538

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769

Re: [ckirkwood9] Climbing advise
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  

In reply to:
I never suggested "weight training" for swimmers, runners OR climbers for that matter. I simply stated that STRONGER sport specific muscles will help with the sport that employs those muscles.
I guess I assumed you meant activity other than the specific sport since you were using these examples to support the use of a forearm trainer. Silly me. If not talking about the specific sport (swimming, running, climbing) to gain "stronger sport-specific muscles", then I can only assume you mean using some other means, i.e. weight lifting in this example. I'm all ears if you had something else in mind that does not include the sport itself.
In reply to:
Go back to grad school and demand your money back... they've failed you
Well, I'm still in it, so maybe there's still hope.
In reply to:
That is why i stressed PROPER USE of the training device to build strength in PREPARATION for climbing, when returning from an injury (as suppored by a physical therapist), or as a warm up. By doing so a new climber's hands/forearms would be more apt to handle the stresses placed upon them by climbing.
No you weren't, you were arguing that a forearm trainer would be beneficial to a new climber to help them prepare for climbing. Not for PT, not as a warm-up routine.
In reply to:
I provided you 2.

Though I suppose you COULD question the credibility of
La Sportiva-sponsored athlete: Daniel Woods
and Eric Horst: the author of a book that
Lynn Hill calls "Well researched and right on."
Again, these may be fine examples for a training climber, but not appropriate for someone who has just started out climbing. And I still don't remember seeing anything in those sources specifically about a forearm trainer, only regarding other non sport-specific training. I could be wrong there since I have not gone back to re-read Horst's book.
In reply to:
how's this for credible:
Brandi Proffitt. Brandi's a professional climber, international routesetter, Certified Personal Trainer and Nationally Accredited US Climbing Coach endorses a forearm trainer and says this:

Isometric tension of all the forearm exercises increases grip strength, reduces stress, tones and sculpts targeted muscles, reduces the onset of arm pump when used as a stretching aid prior to activity and reduces discomfort caused by repetitive motion disorders
If you're going to quote a source, at least get the source right. This quote is from a website for a training product, the Gripstick ( or here not a quote from Brandi Proffitt. Here is what she had to say, "'I'd like to say that not only has the use of the Grip Stik improved my overall forearm fitness, it has significantly countered the development of elbow injuries which I was beginning to experience as a result of forearm muscle imbalance. Using the Grip Stik on a regular basis has helped to balance my strength and improve my competitive performance as a professional rock climber like no other exercise or therapy I've tried. Since I started using GripStik as part of my regular rock climbing training regimen, I have been free of elbow problems, have experienced a reduced onset of fore arm pump while climbing, and have ranked in the top ten in the female US national standings in my sport two years in a row. Thank you so much for your support and for a wonderful product. I recommend it to anyone who wants to improve forearm strength, flexibility, endurance, and overall balance.'".

Again, maybe appropriate for a trained climber to counteract "forearm muscle imbalance", but not something a beginning climber should have trouble with yet. So I could believe that such training may help prevent injury and allow you to continue training, but this is still not an issue for a new climber.

In reply to:
Here is a quote from a professional that emphasizes the importance of developing strong forearms for rock climbing.

”First, strong fingers are every climber's dream. And since the fingers don't have muscles, it's the sinew connections in the forearms (and the attending muscles) that must be strengthened.”
- How to Rock Climb-A Falcon Guide; 3rd ed.- John Long


from Dr. Amy Collins

The muscles in the forearm connect from the elbow to the wrist, controlling motion in your elbow, wrist, hand and fingers. One or more muscles may be involved in a particular activity. Strengthening the affected muscles is an important part of tendinitis rehab. A change in your workout can allow you to strengthen around the inflamed muscles without aggravating them. Change your routine regularly to balance the stresses placed upon the muscles.

Would you like more?
As for these ridiculous examples, one is talking about rehab and about strengthening opposing muscles without aggravating inflamed muscles (still no mention of a forearm trainer). Not a problem a beginning climber should have. The other is stating the obvious. Of course we'd all like stronger fingers, although I doubt that it is anywhere near the limiting factor for most climbers. The questions are 1)is a forearm trainer the best way to achieve this (debatable) and 2)if it is, is it appropriate for for a beginning climber (not addressed at all by John Long's quote). Off to NRG now, enjoy your weekend.

(This post was edited by csproul on Aug 21, 2009, 9:50 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by csproul () on Aug 21, 2009, 9:42 AM
Post edited by csproul () on Aug 21, 2009, 9:50 AM

Search for (options)

Log In:

Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?