Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [ken21il] Gear Advice: Edit Log


Feb 10, 2010, 10:30 AM

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Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: [ken21il] Gear Advice
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ken21il wrote:
Well... depends on where you climb.. you should talk to some of the local climbers or at least someone that leads trad there... as for now learning how to place nuts and maybe hexs on the ground first is a good start... DONT just plug those new shinny cams and go.. you need to get some experience following a experienced trad climber first.. plus im sure you spent some good money on what you've got... why not learn how to get some use out of it before you buy more!! ALSO dont forget BEER- for those experienced trad climbers you'll be following around!!

Ahh. the beer, yes.. amazing what that'll get you!
ken21il posted some good advice, people are all too eager to list out what they perceive as the components of "the perfect trad rack", knowing little or nothing about the area you plan on climbing in. Alberta is mostly sh*tty limestone and more often then not with a *standard* rack, (especially in the really compact limestone), your placements will be far and few between.

I've been trad climbing in Alberta for 30+ years, we put up 30-some new routes last summer alone, so I have a pretty good handle on what works here, and what doesn't.

That said, there is also a degree of personal preference involved, which brings us right back to ken21il's advice. You should definitely go out with some people who have lots of experience trad climbing in this area. This way you can "try-before-you-buy", as well learn how/why certain gear works well here.

I'd be glad to help you out if you want, message me and we'll get together.

(This post was edited by skinner on Feb 11, 2010, 9:27 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by skinner () on Feb 11, 2010, 9:27 PM

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