Forums: Climbing Information: General: Re: [happiegrrrl] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop?: Edit Log


Apr 25, 2010, 8:21 AM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
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Re: [happiegrrrl] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop?
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happiegrrrl wrote:
USnavy wrote:

... have two PAS's, one attached to each belay loop.

It does look like you have some wear on that section, but I can't tell from the photo what is actually going on.

TWO PAS's? TWO belay loops? I know some of the manufacturers made the double belay loop after Skinner bit the dust(RIP) when his belay loop busted through from overuse(overuse to the extreme that I doubt ANYONE who has time to post regularly to this website could ever come near achieving). It was a manufacturers marketing reaction to an unfortunate, but very widely publicized, event in our community. People actually ditched their perfectly good harnesses to buy the double loop. Well, it was good for the outdoor rec economy, I suppose.

Personally, I would never buy a harness with the double belay loop, and I'd be embarrassed to be seen wearing one.

But TWO PAS'S? For everyday free climbing? Not only would I be embarrassed to be seen in such get-up, I'd be embarrassed to be seen belaying someone that dogmatic about *safety.*

But....that's just me.

I do have the PAS, and though I've considered ditching it and just going with rope or a sling tie-in, it still has a lot of life on it. I don't think I would pay, what is it now - $30?, for a new one. The PAS was suggested to be(by a self-professed safety nazi) when I was a brand new newb. I admit that I sort of like being able to have the options of lengths, when anchored in at a little ledge.

- I girth hitch it to the top tie-in only.
- I check it, and harness point, every so often to see the wear. So far, not any, really, after 5 years use on multipitch and rap anchor clip-in use.

Someone once freaked out that I had only one point hitched, insisting I was gonna die. I agreed - I would, someday die. After all - nobody gets out alive. But it would be extremely unlikely to be from gear failure.

Still, I obediantly switched it out to do both tie-in points, and every damned time I put the harness on with that set up, found myself annoyed trying to thread the rope tie-in(especially with doubles), and also a vague annoyance due to the harness feeling off balance with the bunched up lower tie-point. I switched back to one tie point the next time I checked for wear.

You know what I think is WAY more important than how one clips themselves in? Keeping hydrated, energy level in balance through nutrition, and wearing adequate clothing. I bet a LOT more people die from fucking up their anchor/rap set up because they were bonking, dehydrated or in hypothermia mode, than all the one's(RIP Skinner, and in no way discounting the tragic loss to his family and friends) whose harness or tie-in cling broke due to wear.
Yea, the pic kind of sucks. If you click on it the image will become larger and you can see things a bit more clearly.

The double belay loops are not for safety, they are for convince on aid climbs and big walls. I have two PASís for a couple of reasons. The first reason, I need two when aid climbing. Having two is part of basic aid climbing technique (at least it is how I do it). You need one attached to each aider incase you fall, that way you donít loose your aiders. Also itís not a good idea to be hanging 2,000 feet off the ground on a big wall suspended by a single PAS with a single carabiner. If that one bolt pulls youíre done for. If your leader takes a big fall youíre going to get pulled up to the limit of the reach of your daisy (i.e. the daisy will be stopping you from being pulled any higher). Itís possible for your biner to fail if this happens as the biner can get wedged in the hanger and the hanger can rip through the gate. Itís a bit hard to visualize but trust me itís possible.

No I donít have any aid accents in my log because we donít have any established aid lines here to mark in my log. But I can still practice aid climbing as we have lots of cracks. I originally got the harness pictured for bolting because itís uncomfortable to be sitting on rap well bolting in a G string sport climbing harness. Since it was so comfortable I used it for free climbing. However I didnít get the PAS's until after the harness had been damaged. Before that I used a dyneema sling wrapped through the tie in points.

(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 25, 2010, 8:38 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 25, 2010, 8:30 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 25, 2010, 8:36 AM
Post edited by USnavy () on Apr 25, 2010, 8:38 AM

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