Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [kostik] dangerous belayer: Edit Log




jt512


Jun 22, 2010, 9:11 PM

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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [kostik] dangerous belayer
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kostik wrote:
This article explains clearly in plain German that one cannot hold the Cinch vertically. It is dangerous because in this case the rope goes straight through the device toward the climber without meeting any friction. Those people who are claiming to hold it upright during the lead belay are endangering their climbers. You can hold it vertically only when belaying on a TR.

When you catch a fall, the rope goes from the belay device up to an anchor and then down to the climber. This is true whether the climber is top roping or leading. Therefore, it is very difficult to see why, if the Cinch can safely be held vertically for TR belaying, it cannot be safely held vertically for lead belaying.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 22, 2010, 9:13 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Jun 22, 2010, 9:12 PM
Post edited by jt512 () on Jun 22, 2010, 9:13 PM


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