Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Sport Climbing: Re: [lena_chita] Anchors at the top of a route: Edit Log




billl7


Jul 15, 2010, 1:48 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890

Re: [lena_chita] Anchors at the top of a route
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lena_chita wrote:
Also, you should consider the length of your quickdraws vs. the distance between the two anchors. With standard 12inch legth quickdraws, if your anchor bolts are more than 12in apart, you would be creating a too-wide angle at the point where the two quickdraws come together, increasing the force on the anchors.
When the rope is free hanging from the draws (edit: equalized draws), the largest effective angle possible is 90 degrees which is fine for a top rope application.

The only real drawback from this issue is the approximately horizontal run of rope between the draws ... adds a little extension if one leg somehow fails.

Bill L


(This post was edited by billl7 on Jul 15, 2010, 1:50 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Jul 15, 2010, 1:50 PM


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