Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [healyje] Have you ever decked?: Edit Log


Apr 12, 2011, 9:23 PM

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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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Re: [healyje] Have you ever decked?
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healyje wrote:
I think for the old folks around here that this thread, while not entirely unexpected, is still fairly horrifying.

In 37 years of climbing I've known one person who's decked actually climbing and that was both someone I've known for that entire time and an incident that happened quite recently. It was also a situation where he wouldn't have fallen if he'd simply free-soloed it instead of dicking around rope-soloing a hard line with a low crux (always a bad idea for roped-soloing). Fortunately he recovered fine. Over that same period I've known two other climbers who died descending fourth class terrain on foot.

By and large, that this many of you have decked says a lot about the training and indoctrination - or the lack thereof - associated with climbing today. In general I would basically lay all this on the rapid introduction to climbing associated with gyms and sport climbing. You get up to speed on the movement faster then you develop the requisite experience and wherewithal that used to come from an extended mentoring period seconding experience [trad] leaders. I'm also guessing distractions associated with today's highly socialized climbing scene plays into this as well (as in the STFUAB factor).

That's not to say all of us old folk haven't had close calls, but actually decking? That was an extremely rare event and rarely one a person lived through from what I've seen and experienced over the years.

Times they are a'changing. Be careful out there...!

Thank you. I've been holding off on responding to this thread simply because it's turning my stomach. You have an additional 17 years on me. I've never decked. The people I routinely climb with haven't decked, and trust me, these guys are legends. This massive rush that is going on these days so people can call themselves "climbers" is scary. It's takes YEARS to build the intuition and experience required to keep things like this from happening.

Somebody earlier in the thread divulged that they were "teaching" a class and let the student lower them. They decked as a result. Then somebody chimes in how it was not their fault. BULLSHIT. The poster was right, he was completely at fault. YOU NEVER LET A STUDENT/CLIENT LOWER YOU, EVER.

When I first started on the reincarnation of JOSAR here in Josh in 2000, they had not had a death in the park in over 8 years. And that death was not climbing related. For the 7 years I ran the team we had at least one death a season, and many critical life threating climbing injuries requiring immediate heli evacs.

People getting in way over their heads long before they have a clue as to what they were doing.

(This post was edited by socalclimber on Apr 12, 2011, 9:25 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by socalclimber () on Apr 12, 2011, 9:25 PM

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