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Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [robdotcalm] Slinging long and short in a roped protection "system".:
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healyje
May 24, 2011, 10:54 AM
Views: 5985
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
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As JimTitt says it's something you have to think somewhat more explicitly about in the beginning of your career and after awhile it all happens more or less 'automagically'.
But this is just the sort of scenario / circumstance where the 'system' aspect of a climb tends to jump back to the conscious foreground because you are confronted with a situation that involves some specific trade-offs of consequence to the remainder of the climb.
And as robdotcalm mentions, it can be less than obvious at the moment which is the right way to sling and that's where the experience and understanding of the trade-offs comes in. That doesn't mean there still aren't hard calls where you only learn the right decision in hindsight.
Bill7 is right, you just have to weigh rope drag against quality of, and potential fall-effects on, the pivotal placement and those above and below it and make your call. You may very well have to try and stop for a moment and play the scenarios through in your head to try and visualize both the potential drag and the consequences of slinging both long and short in a fall.
That's part of the challenge of trad climbing:
* route finding
* looking ahead for placements
* being aware of what's left on your rack to make placements with
* evaluating potential placements when you arrive at a likely spot to make one
* deciding if you're better off putting in a piece or just keep climbing until you get to a better stance or a better placement
* balancing your current ability / time to hang out to make a placement against its complexity and resulting quality of it
* actually making a placement (and making it the best placement possible given the available options and pro)
* slinging a placement appropriate to the 'system' you're building
It takes a bit of mileage under your belt for it all to merge into a steady rhythm that just happens and flows, but stick with it all and it will.
(This post was edited by healyje on May 24, 2011, 10:56 AM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by healyje
() on May 24, 2011, 10:55 AM
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Post edited by healyje
() on May 24, 2011, 10:56 AM
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