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Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
A new "What's your gap":
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cracklover
Jun 3, 2011, 3:53 PM
Views: 6826
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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So as we were discussing the gap between hardest sport and hardest trad leads we've done, I was thinking - the question is kinda phrased wrong. See, it's not the "hardest" route that really says much about you as a climber. We all have our strengths and weaknesses, after all. Find a route that caters to your strengths and you can send way harder than your typical grade. For example, for me, it's certain types of cracks. I've onsighted crack climbs at within a couple letter grades of my absolute physical limit because that's just what I'm best at. But there are some types of trad climbs that I'm really kinda shitty at. And somewhere in the middle is the "typical" trad climb. So if you're looking for a gap, it's the grade of the typical climb that's really where you'll find it. For example, if I'm getting on a trad route, sight unseen, and all I know is the grade, and that it takes a fairly standard rack, I'll go as high as maybe 10+/11- depending on the area. Beyond that, I'd need to do some research on the route, to see whether I felt competent to be on it or not. But if I'm getting on a sport route, well whatever. It's sport, right? So I'm game to try pretty much any sport route, sight unseen, up to at least low to mid 12. That's over a full number grade. Now there's a gap. GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Jun 3, 2011, 4:02 PM)
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Post edited by cracklover
() on Jun 3, 2011, 4:02 PM
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