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Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [ecade] Help Convert Me! : Edit Log




sbaclimber


Jun 25, 2011, 11:38 AM

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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
Re: [ecade] Help Convert Me!
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ecade wrote:
I'm climbing a route that I know I shouldn't fall on, on protection that I don't feel comfortable falling on, with the hopes that I will become comfortable to fall on it by not falling on it?
If it is any consolation, I have been climbing over 15 years and am still not comfortable falling, regardless of whether on gear or bolts. Most of the time, it has little to do with the quality of the pro, it is just an irrational feeling that I have not trained myself enough fully have under control. Based on a fair amount of experience, I can generally gauge whether a placement is good or not...and try even harder not to fall accordingly.

In addition to the good advice posted by others above (practice, inspection by experienced climbers, etc), you might also try bounce-testing placements and aid-climbing, both close to the ground and not above pointy rocks or sticks. Tongue
I have had some surprises doing this, which have quickly put me back on the ground and made me reevaluate what a "good" placement is (especially with C3s in hard/smooth rock).


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jun 25, 2011, 11:41 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by sbaclimber () on Jun 25, 2011, 11:40 AM
Post edited by sbaclimber () on Jun 25, 2011, 11:41 AM


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