Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [Grizvok] Do you target certain finger positions?: Edit Log


Jul 19, 2011, 3:26 PM

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Registered: Nov 8, 2009
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Re: [Grizvok] Do you target certain finger positions?
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Grizvok wrote:
ceebo wrote:
In the past i have always done endurance in the open hand as much as possible. Recently though i tried to repeat previous endurance drills staying in the half crimp and ended up having to shake out many times as a result. It would seem logical to assume that from the above, open hand has very little pass over to half crimp when it comes to endurance. I'm sorry if that happens to be old news if true, since i see so many people telling to train open hand more, and in effect that is what i have done.

So, a question for training efficiency (and the poll for curiosity). If i continue to do all my endurance in the half crimp position is it likely to pass over into open hand strength?.. as to kill 2 birds with 1 stone so to speak.

You actually posted the exact opposite of what is taught in that open hand is supposed to translate (somewhat) to crimp and crimp strength will not translate to open hand.

I can do 45 min endurance drills using open hand and not shake out a single time. When i tried a drill late last week only using half crimp on a sequence i can piss on with open hand i had to shake out regularly. That in my books shows no pass over what so ever.

My aerobic in open hand is and has been for a long time in the mid/late 5.10s minimum and at one point in the 5.11's. I can do laps in open hand alternating between 2 fingers on each hand and still not get pumped. When i tried half crimp i had to resort to using many more holds that put me down to around 5.9 and i was still having to sake out. No amount of holds seemed to make any difference.. i just did not have the endurance in that finger position.

The only explanation i can think of is that because i was on harder routes in open hand (allot of it single pad), in order to stay open hand meant my pinky was not getting used allot of the time. Could a under trained pinky really lead to such a significant drop in half crimp endurance?.

Is their actual research done into open hand pass over?. And, is their research in half crimp pass over to open, if any.

And flesh, I'm not really asking what is the safest here. Open may allow me to climb allot longer in safety.. but with the pass over i have seen to half crimp (or lack of) i would rather find a better balance of the 2. Honestly i have not felt any pass over what so ever.. and i have done a great deal of endurance training in the past and present.

(This post was edited by ceebo on Jul 19, 2011, 3:34 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Jul 19, 2011, 3:34 PM

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