Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention: Re: [Meva] Audible *pop* heard while climbing today - A4 pulley injury? Advice would be greatly appreciated!: Edit Log




Meva


Jul 20, 2011, 1:03 AM

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Registered: Jun 20, 2011
Posts: 5

Re: [Meva] Audible *pop* heard while climbing today - A4 pulley injury? Advice would be greatly appreciated!
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I really appreciate all the help I received in this thread and thought I should give an update on my finger.

I began climbing very carefully starting a week post-injury (probably NOT smart since I was putting unusual strain on my ring finger by not using my pinky.) A month later (today) I've been able to climb fairly strong in the gym as long as I skip certain holds and am careful. I have also spent time outside on granite and limestone (bouldering and routes). As long as the last IP joint of my pinky is fairly straight I do not feel much discomfort; Ironically, it feels much safer to crimp or half-crimp than to grab many types of pinches or slopers... Had I injured my A2 pulley I'm sure this would not be the case.

One interesting thing I've noticed is that both IP joints in my pinky seem slightly 'looser' than they did before. I find myself popping the joints accidentally just by massaging the damaged pulley, or doing everyday things that put lateral strain on my fingers.

After talking to several people who have had pulley injuries (often very severe) I feel *extremely* lucky. It seems like most pulley injuries happen due to shock-loading (e.g. foot slip while holding tweaky holds) or flexing/extending of fingers while they are bearing weight.

I am much more aware the holds I'm grabbing and am trying valiantly to half-crimp/openhand whenever I can. It is still very disconcerting to me that this injury occured while half-crimping a jug, but I'm hoping these changes will help prevent future injury. It could be months before I can safely pull as hard as I did before, but I'm very grateful that things are not worse.

My injury seems a little unusual, but I would ge glad to share more or try to help anyone that has questions.


(This post was edited by Meva on Jul 20, 2011, 1:08 AM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by Meva () on Jul 20, 2011, 1:04 AM: Missing period.
Post edited by Meva () on Jul 20, 2011, 1:06 AM
Post edited by Meva () on Jul 20, 2011, 1:07 AM
Post edited by Meva () on Jul 20, 2011, 1:08 AM


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