Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [sbaclimber] How the fuck do you manage to climb with all that heavy crap!?: Edit Log


Sep 18, 2011, 7:28 AM

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Re: [sbaclimber] How the fuck do you manage to climb with all that heavy crap!?
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sbaclimber wrote:
qwert wrote:
Looks sweet! Where is it?
Pflunspitzen, a tad under 3000m, in the Middle of the Verwall region, Austria. Strangely quite remote, given that it is actually right next to the famous Arlberg skiing region

In reply to:
It sounds like you took a little too much for the alps
Yeah, i figured that out too. But since we hadnt any beta besides "full rack", and we both arent too used to gneiss…
But it does not sound too much more than your rack!
In reply to:
The tri-cams serve as doubles from a mid-sized stopper up to about the #2 cam.
I wanted the tricams, but my buddy refused to take them with us!

socalclimber wrote:
Well, the route is definitely an alpine route. You could consider the link cams. A handful of those and some stoppers and slings would probably serve you well.

Great looking route by the way. Was it good?
It was in the alps, so yes, it was alpine, but the climbing would still fall under trad, which translates back to the term "Alpin" in german, even if its trad outside of the alps, so i am in a kind of conundrum…

Yes, the link cams would help with the "how the hell do i know which sizes i need the most" problem, but i am not really sure about their use for me, given that i climb limestone most of the time, where irregular placements that are rather bad for cams in general, and for links especially so, prevail!

But it was good anyways The climb was quite nice, as was the view, and that we didnt have hundreds of people around us was also a refreshing change. As i said, we managed without any problems, but this time i really realized that i took too much shit with me.

julio412 wrote:
Things have changed since the 20's Qwert.
For one, pitches were probably only like a 100'(30m)
So, you're only really looking at 5&1/2 pitches in today's world.
Apart from 1 20m pitch, it was all between 45 and 55m. All in all a tad under 500m
In reply to:
If you've ever climbed anything other than sport, well, you carry a rack... on a gear sling; pretty simple really, once you've done once or twice.
Dont worry, i climb not only sport. Actually i had the cams on a sling, but there they where in the way even more, especially on the few low angle pitches.
In reply to:
Also, you can carry a small pack; like a true mountaineer.
Of course we had packs. That seemed so obvious that i did not mention it.
In reply to:
Oh, and by the way, Walter Bonatti died the other day, and no one, no one ,on, seems to care.
Who the hell are you?
Yes, i read about that. Why I do not care? I dont really care about "stars", so i am not talking about those people much, no matter if they are a true legend of the "sport" or a new kid that runs up all kinds of 5.20 impossible stuff.
Why do YOU not seem to care?
Who i am? Just a n00b who occasionally climbs around in the alps and the alb since about 10 years.

shockabuku wrote:
And if you're only placing three pieces per pitch, don't bring as much. Certainly not all eight draws and a "bunch" of 120 cm slings. Probably not the redundant .75-2 cams.
But how do i know what i will need?
Ironically the redundant cams where the most usefull pieces…


(This post was edited by qwert on Sep 18, 2011, 7:35 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by qwert () on Sep 18, 2011, 7:35 AM

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