Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [qwert] How the fuck do you manage to climb with all that heavy crap!?: Edit Log


Sep 18, 2011, 9:19 AM

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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
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Re: [qwert] How the fuck do you manage to climb with all that heavy crap!?
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I just finished a road trip and one of the main issues at first was the difference in how much gear my partner and I wanted to take. She routinely takes tripples of some pieces and also has two link cams, which are rediculously heavy and not really all that useful. She also hangs shoes, rain jacket, extra fleece layer, gloves and a pretty big camera off her harness! Every time she would start up a lead I would think to myself "man, it would suck to be loaded down like that."

On the gear side I ended up giving in most of time time and just taking the extra pieces along. Sometimes it allowed us to do longer pitches and we were at the Needles for the last part of our trip so doubles from .3 to 2 is pretty standard anyway.

The way I cut down on having shit on my harness is having a small pack where I keep my water, shoes, bars, rain shell, tiny tiny headlamp, etc. I hate having that crap on my harness.

Also, I take as few quickdraws as possible. I like having 6 to 8 dyneema shoulder slings each w/ a single biner. The dyneema is very light and you're saving half a pound in biners.

Lockers are something else I like to leave behind. I flew to CA and only took a select amont of gear so I took lockers, but usually you can get away with only having three total, supplimented by a few Heliums which are full size but much lighter. Deciding before hand that you will belay off your harness instead of using an autoblock saves you a locker and for most applications a wiregate is fine.

In your case it might have helped to have a few hexes instead of the doubles on cams but you said you used them so...

Anyways, I feel you... how the fuck do people carry all that shit! If you look at the SuperTopo rack suggesstinos some of them are a bit crazy. If I'm climbing below my limit (which I think you were) then I'm carrying more nuts/tri-cams and fewer cams. But if I'm on something near my limit I'll typically have at least as much gear as you did, minus the hammer and pins of course, that's overkill. You can almost always leave stoppers.

(This post was edited by rtwilli4 on Sep 18, 2011, 9:25 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by rtwilli4 () on Sep 18, 2011, 9:25 AM

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