Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [cracklover] Natural Protection Twisting Until Unusable. Why?: Edit Log




billl7


Oct 26, 2011, 6:45 PM

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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890

Re: [cracklover] Natural Protection Twisting Until Unusable. Why?
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cracklover wrote:

This picture is GREAT for imagining the 'circle' on the left versus the 'spiral' on the right that I tried convey in words. Thanks!

That boils my earlier 3D discussion down to just this:

In the case of the spiral (on the right), as a given rope section initially contacts the biner one gets the same stretch/compression as with the circle (on the left). However, as that section of rope continues to travel along the spiral and if the rope somehow could not twist (impossible) the zones of stretch and compression would vary around the long axis of the rope (e.g., one specific part of the rope would stretch and later compress - roughly put).

BUT I think the zone that intiially, say, stretched tends to stay stretched as it goes through the spiral - because it takes work to do otherwise - and so the rope twists. Voila!


(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 26, 2011, 6:52 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 26, 2011, 6:50 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 26, 2011, 6:51 PM
Post edited by billl7 () on Oct 26, 2011, 6:52 PM


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