Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [GeckoBat] Training for the Injured Climber: Edit Log


Feb 28, 2012, 8:54 AM

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Re: [GeckoBat] Training for the Injured Climber
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GeckoBat wrote:
ceebo wrote:
.... Unless its the middle finger?.

Why? I ask because my injury is the middle finger of my right hand.

If you put your hand and arm flat on table w/e then tuck the midlle finger under the flat hand. Use other hand and gently pull back the ring fingr. You will feel it puts a large deal of stress down the tendon through to the forearm connection.

Im not some expert but i think that kinde tension can't be good. When you go up your arm will angle up more and stretch some more perhaps, it just don't seem like a good thing to chance.

You could however try to tape up the middle finger joints so they cant bend as opposed to trying to bend the middle finger under the holds. So long as you stick to half crimp type of holds on vert walls then your middle finger should stay clear of any weight. If the middle finger even lays flat on the wall though its likely you will put some weight on it un intentionaly as you go up through the move. It will look hillariuos since you will be giving a constent middle finger to people ;p..

I only ever had to climb with 1 finger injury and that was after having it almost bit off by a dog. The bandedge on the finger was a great help in reminding me not to use it (quite easy to forget ;p). Good luck

(This post was edited by ceebo on Feb 28, 2012, 8:58 AM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by ceebo () on Feb 28, 2012, 8:57 AM
Post edited by ceebo () on Feb 28, 2012, 8:58 AM

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