Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [jt512] Gym Death- Knot Failure: Edit Log


Apr 13, 2012, 1:53 PM

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Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21904

Re: [jt512] Gym Death- Knot Failure
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jt512 wrote:
maldaly wrote:
Just a head's up kiddies. A properly tied bowline--single, double or retraced--will not slip regardless of whether or not it has a stopper knot.

I think you're flat-out wrong about an unbacked-up single or double bowline. Without constant tension, those knots can work loose and become untied.

To verify to myself that this is true, I just tied in to a single unbacked-up bowline. The knot was well dressed and pre-tensioned. By simply shaking the standing end of the rope, I was able to get the knot to completely untie itself in about 20 seconds. That is not a safe tie-in knot.


(This post was edited by jt512 on Apr 13, 2012, 10:43 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by jt512 () on Apr 13, 2012, 10:43 PM

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