Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing: Re: [notapplicable] Advice to the beginning trad leader around falling - don't: Edit Log


May 18, 2012, 3:25 PM

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Re: [notapplicable] Advice to the beginning trad leader around falling - don't
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i am not advocating beginners go out and fall on gear ... but at some point you WILL fall on gear ... and the only way to know if itll hold is experience of previous falls ... even placing "bomber" gear on the ground doesnt mean it or the rock will hold ... its all theoretical till you take an actual fall

the trick IMO for someone who knows what they are doing is knowing where it is safe to fall and where it aint ...

if you dont want to fall ... then dont climb ... anyone, experienced or newbs can fall on even the easiest ground

there are 3 ways around it IMO

- place solid pro ... a lot of pro ... you can still get hurt or die

- become a stronger climber ... mentally and physically ... which you cant really do if you are shaking everytime you get a few feet above yr last piece because you are afraid of falls

- wuss out with yr tail between yr legs ... of which there is nothing wrong with and is sometimes the wise decision

as for beginners ... make sure yr gear is solid (which you wont know unless someone who can hopefully tell follows you up yr climbs and sometimes not even then unless theres a fall), get strong on TR as much as possible on the climbs, and eventually you WILL have to take the risk of leading and falling

fear can kill you as much as lack of fear can ... just watch someone with elvis legs on a lead .. they are more likely to fall and get hurt than someone who climbs it with more confidence

(This post was edited by bearbreeder on May 18, 2012, 3:26 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by bearbreeder () on May 18, 2012, 3:26 PM

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