Forums: Climbing Information: Accident and Incident Analysis: Re: [hugepedro] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday: Edit Log


Oct 9, 2012, 12:25 PM

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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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Re: [hugepedro] Near Miss at Rumney on Sunday
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hugepedro wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
robx wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
This thread is making zero sense. She was lowering him (presumably on a rope). Ran out of rope, so he climbed back up to the anchor, where he had no means of tying in? Even though he has a rope that he's tied into? Then she led up to the anchors on your rope? And you let that happen even though they were seemingly not equipped with either gear or knowledge for the leader to belay the second? (Although they must've figured something out at the top of the second pitch.)

Why didn't you just tie your rope to theirs and lower him the rest of the way?

sorry I didn't explain this enough. They, as a climbing group had enough gear to climb this route, the original climber just brought enough for him to climb it as a single pitch, and lower (which wasn't possible). The lady belaying told me that their intention was to climb both pitches after they had warmed up on the first, so she reasoned that they might as well finish what they had started, as it was their intention anyway.
the original climber tied off into a quick draw that he pulled off of a bolt on his way back up to the first anchor, because he had no extra quickdraws.

In hindsight I should have just said "no" and climbed with my partner up to him, and lowered him from there, but clearly I put too much trust in a pair of climbers that didn't deserve it. What scares me most about my decision is that these two (and the rest of their group) climbed on through all of this like nothing bad had happened or could have happened (he was very close to being lowered off the end of the rope).

Rather than climb up yourself and lower him, you should have just had him clip his harness directly into 1 of the draws on the wall, then tie your rope to the end of their rope and rig your rope in your belay device, then have her go off belay, then have him unclip from the wall and lower him. You'd have him down in less than 5 minutes.

For this to work, the stuck climber would have to pull up all the rope on the belayer side in order to get them out of the quickdraws. Otherwise, the knot would have to be pulled through the quickdraws. Then you would have to assume the climber would be knowledgeable enough to thread the anchor.

Anyway - glad the OP was there to help out. Even if it was not apparent, I hope the stuck climbers reflected on what went wrong so they can learn from the experience.

I'm not familiar with the route, but I assumed he could clean any lower draws on the way down if they were in the way?

Didn't he only have 8 feet of rope left before he was off belay? but if we are talking about a 5.3 slab climb, he should have just down climbed.

Here is the epic climb:

(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Oct 9, 2012, 12:29 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by wonderwoman () on Oct 9, 2012, 12:29 PM

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