Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads: Re: [rmsusa] trust these cams: Edit Log


Oct 11, 2012, 8:41 PM

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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
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Re: [rmsusa] trust these cams
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rmsusa wrote:
In reply to:
Would you trust your life to a product manufactured in a dysfunctional country bordering on Third World status?*

China? .... BD, Petzl, etc., etc.

I would any day as long as it has that CE Stamp.
That CE stamp, and even the UIAA stamp does not mean much when it comes to quality control. Those stamps mean that the climbing product meets minimal strength requirements and a few other requirements. However, CE and the UIAA only test a few samples. In the case of ropes, the UIAA tests three ropes. Three ropes and you have yourself a UIAA stamp for that model - that's it.

In order to get a good measure of quality control, you need to test a reasonable number (say 1%) of samples from EVERY batch that is manufactured. Even then, it is possible a few bad units can go through. That is why companies like Metolius proof test EVERY cam they sell to 50% of its rated load before they let it leave the factory. Top notch overhead lifting equipment manufacturers do the same. They proof test every product to about 200% of its SWL before it leaves the factor. That is what is required for true guaranteed quality control.

Another indicator of good quality control is a 3-sigma certification that is verified every single batch. Because of how the 3-sigma formula works, in order to obtain a respectable 3-sigma breaking strength, the product needs to have a low standard deviation. Low standard deviations are really hard to achieve if a manufacturer has low quality control on their product(s).

(This post was edited by USnavy on Oct 13, 2012, 1:13 PM)

Edit Log:
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 11, 2012, 8:42 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 11, 2012, 8:46 PM
Post edited by USnavy () on Oct 13, 2012, 1:13 PM

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