Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training: Re: [DouglasHunter] burning arms - how to train for this?: Edit Log




njrox


Mar 1, 2013, 8:25 PM

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Registered: May 12, 2011
Posts: 251

Re: [DouglasHunter] burning arms - how to train for this?
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I’m not familiar with any of NSCA or ACSM’s training materials.

I’m sure you can find the details of NASM’s curriculum on the internet and draw your own conclusions on the appropriateness of its instructions and adequacies of its program design, or lack thereof. Suffice to say, there’s no chapter on “how to rock climb”. Being a Certified Personal Trainer doesn’t transfer into me being a Climbing Coach. My statement of being a trainer was more “and as a matter of fact” then a declaration of expertise.

I genuinely have no idea how to train, outside of climbing, to improve rock climbing. My first post on this thread, “Besides climbing, are there any exercises that would benefit a climber?” was because I’m truly interested as a trainer, and a student of training. I don’t have a bunch of ideas or preconceived notions on how to train for climbing that I refuse to depart with. I’m actually willing to listen. I want someone to school me.

Anyway, this was my follow-up, “I’m only looking at it in terms of developing grip strength and endurance because I feel like that’s my biggest weakness. I also wanted to see how as a CPT I could come up with a resistance-training program as a supplement to climbing, and I wanted to start with the above-mentioned issue. But I think aside from the obvious methods for grip-strength/forearm training, without a focus on movement overall success will be limited.”

So, what have I been doing?

I’ve been doing lock offs and dead hangs off of a door’s molding. I’ve been wrist curling dumbbells. I’ve been squeezing a grip strengthener. I’ve been spinning a gyroscope ball.

These are things I feel will enhance my fingers, grip, and forearm strength and endurance. I don’t feel they will improve my climbing abilities but at the very least, I’m hoping they’ll eliminate the problem I mentioned, “Last night was my first night back to the gym. I was climbing at about the same difficulty level as I left off. First thing got that tired, or sore, my was fingers (almost right away) and by my 3rd climb my forearms were beginning to burn”. That’s why I am here in the “burning arms” thread.

I do feel there are some basic “gym” exercises that will benefit a climber. Hanging Leg Raises. Lateral Pull-downs. Pull-ups. I also feel that there are yoga poses that will benefit a climber. Half Moon Pose. Triangle Pose. Eagle Pose. But I feel that in order to get good at a particular sport or activity you have to regularly be doing that sport or activity as the body adapts to the specific demands placed upon it (the Principle of Specificity). And with that, I agree with what you’re saying. Without actual climbing, one’s abilities will regress.


(This post was edited by njrox on Mar 1, 2013, 8:27 PM)



Edit Log:
Post edited by njrox () on Mar 1, 2013, 8:27 PM


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